A lot of smaller capacity motorcycles in this class can all accelerate to 100 km/h in around 6 seconds or under with the Ninja 300 at around 5.4, but as speeds increase their acceleration does start to relent.
Bought my RRW off eBay around 3 yrs ago & it has never let me down. Used daily as a commuter, few trackdays & a tour of the Loire region (France) Had 21k on it when I got it & now on 43k & still going strong!!Mine is a Colin Edwards Laguna Seca replica & has several mods on it including a 17in VFR800 front wheel conversion which is a relatively easy mod & allows a massive choice of rubber. The tip in is still quick as I dropped the yokes by 5mm to compensate ;-) I use Metzeler Racetecs or Dunlop D211GP Racers on track & Metzeler Sportec M5 on the road. Has got Braking front waveys and Galfer rear discs with braided lines. Hyperpro progressive spring internals in the front & rear. Sprint Pro steering damper (it will shake it's head at you if you don't respect it!!) Has been Dynojetted & will easily keep up with newer more powerful marques. I fitted Renthal 15T/45T sprockets which I feel gives it immense acceleration with only a slight loss in top end (even on track)Have ridden several other makes of bike & I still prefer my ole Blade!!The Blades are well put together & have bulletproof reliability too... Get one & you will be surprised how good they really are!!
If you are pondering as to whether a pre-injection blade is for you, then stop thinking and start buying! Not just are they classic's in the making, but they are a serious bike even by todays standards. I currently have a 1999 RRX/W and dont think for a minute that because it is a 10 year old bike that it must be slow! The blade still screams to breath taking speeds in no time at all and with a micron end can it sounds amazing! I use my blade every day and in all weathers and I love it! It rides two up with no problem at all with bearly any difference to the power and gets nods of respect every where you go. Two up, touring, around town, open roads...the list is endless! The blade is happy doing it all! As for fuel I normally reach about 140 miles before I hit reserve which is fine by me. I clean the blade all the time but even in winter the bike scrubs up really well. Excellent build quality, the likes of which you rarely ever see. If your new to riding to be put off by the blade. It really is very easy to ride, and as long as you respect it you cant go wrong. The 1998/99 blade is more like a sports tourer now especially in comparrison to the new blade which is more like a 600 is weight and shape. It is still big and bulky around its front end which gives it a menacing look! I really cant fault my bike. You really should stop thinking and get out there and buy one. I picked my 1999 blade up for a small sum of £1900! The bike only had 10000 miles on the clock and is and remains in excellent condition! I love it. For more photos check out my blog at www.hondafireblade.com.
After three dirtbikes, two streetbikes, an rvf400 and a big 'ole Pan, a blade was to be my introduction to sportsbikes. I got it to find out what all the fuss was about and plumbed for the original '92 blade for that reason. Very happy I did too.I got the bike off ebay with 47K miles on the clock but otherwise looking like a minter. My first probs were electrical, solved by replacing the charging system and reg/rect with electrex gear, job done. Second problem was a slight tickiness at start up which seemed to disappear after warm, this was the cam chain. Sorted by replacing cam chain and tensioner (tensioner was fully extended ie. spent). I then bought a claimed 6k mile carb from off a 94 blade and swapped that in.. cheapest carb rebuild in history.. this helped sharpen up the throttle response. One horrible problem showed up as an intermittent loss of power to cyls 1 and 4, this turned out to be a control cable, rotted through. Sorted by splicing in a replacement. The old motad exhaust fell off just a few weeks ago (well just the tip), swapped that for a scorpion.I've now done a total of about 12K miles on this bike. The last 4k have been completely trouble free. It does 150 miles a day commute (rain or shine, day and night), trackies and the odd weekend blat. It does these things effortlessly and without drama -- in the dark it's got the brightest stock lighting of any bike I've owned. Obviously not a green laner but in road-holding terms the most sure footed thing I've ever ridden.Oh yeah, handling. Nearly forgot to mention, the bike came with a 190 rear.. a 190 rear shags the handling, end of story. Use a 180. Also the 16" front wheel will have a 17" rolling radius if the correct tyre is used, this is also very important, otherwise erhh.. shags the handling. Some months later when one of the forks started leaking I took the bike to have a full fork rebuild and front and back setup, result.. massively improved ride, super-stable in turns, really quiet over tarmac snakes and hatching etc, no, repeat, no chatter under heavy breaking and no tank slappers eg under heavy acceleration over hatching or shitty tarmac. So if you're getting any of these symptoms, don't blame the bike, check you have good tyres and pressures and get the suspension set up!Additional stuff learnt during this exercise is that the rear shock is not easily user serviceable. For now mine seems to be working but soon to be replaced with an ohlins unit. Also, front forks (on '92 model) have only rebound adjustment, I've got a set off a '97 which have rebound and compression adjustment, and I believe will bolt straight on, these will be getting the full treatment (linear springs + ktec damping gubbins) before fitting. Eventually I may also swap out the stockers for some lighter dymag wheels, this looks to be the sweetest (if not the cheapest) way to get a 17" front (for better choice of rubber). Lighter wheels will also be fun I think ;)All in all a bloody descent bit of kit, and no fecker's tried to nick it yet... the thieves round our way seem to prefer K7's, guess I would too but plenty happy enough with my old blade for now.
Comfortable, but no sports tourer, Blistering acceleration, straight out of the box, Great handling (more sure footed than most bikes of same year). Next service is a biggie at £250. Only gripe is that, in the world of Gixer thous', R1's and 'Busas, its looking a bit tired. You will keep up with 'em but that's about it.
Another difference between these two bikes was that one of them, can't recall which one went up to 5 gears and the other one went up to 6 gears. What I do recall is that my 1000 could do 110mph in second gear without hitting the redline. First gear was 60mph. After putting Keihin carburetors on my 1000 (which I still have...those carbs), I put the bike on the dyno and it was pushing 165 hp out of the rear wheel and the graph would show that the clutch was slipping so the engine is capable of putting out more. The clutch was upgraded too.
The track length is around 5.125Kms with 16 turns and track width varies between16m-20m with tracks featuring 8% inclines and 10% descending slopes. The ambient temperature being around 36Â°C, when the competition takes place .Inclines and 16 turns will demand a decent acceleration with a good balance between top speed and acceleration. The turns are designed for F1 cars having a wheelbase around 3m contrary to the FS cars which have wheelbase around 1.65m.It is good for the endurance of FS car whose speed is limited to around 120 Kmph.
Tires are the final part of the car which transmits power to the road. Good balance between top speed and acceleration was to be maintained. Smaller tires provide more traction force for same torque, have less MOI, reduce the overall weight and also lower the center of gravity of the car .So, out of 16, 18 and 20,we decided to go for 16 tires. For tire type, we had an option between slicks and wets (together) and all
The gearbox used was the integrated gearbox of the engine, as the stock gear box of a bike or a car is compatible with its original engine resulting in least power loss and best possible performance .So, the gearbox integrated with the CBR 250R engine was finalized. The gear ratios of last three gears are close to each other which is beneficial in reducing the minimum time required to reach the top speed. Apart from the primary and final reduction, the gearbox provided ratio ranging from 3.33 to 0.962 which provided us high starting torque for better initial acceleration in the first gear(3.33) to a 6th gear of ratio 0.962 for a good cruising speed. This range is more than its close rivals R.E500 and KTM 390 engine (2 most common engines used in SUPRA SAE). The final drive decided was also inspired with the stock one. The sprockets had the same no. teeth as on the bike 14 and 38 respectively and the same pitch as well.
The final ratio in chain driven transmission can be easily changed by changing the sprocket. But, as the final ratio provided a good balance between top speed and acceleration, the sprockets were left unaltered. However, the modification to be done was the installation of a differential/spool integral with the rear sprocket and change in chain length, depending upon the final center distance between the sprockets.
Max. torque for the engine with 35cm runner occurs at 5500rpm and power produced at that rpm is 14KW.This occurs at a lw rpm and the power available is also 2\3 of the max. power available, so pressure drop and power loss will also be very less.So, analysis of power limited acceleration will consider two cases. One with 10% power loss and 85% transmission efficiency and the other with no power loss and 85% transmission efficiency. Power loss due to drag force is neglected as the speed will be very less. 2b1af7f3a8